Thoughts about Israeli Wine

I made Aliyah in May 2019. Before that (momentous event) I spent my entire career in the wine trade, more than 40 years, in the United States and in France. My specific expertise is French wine. I draw my understandings about wine from my work in France and France is the lens through which I observe the wine trade and wines everywhere. And so, when I moved to Israel, I brought this perspective to my tasting (and drinking) of Israeli wine and to the Israeli wine trade and community.

My observations follow. Among those who have informed me, Adam S. Montefiore is first among equals. Adam is the senior wine writer in Israel, a scion of the historic Montefiore family. I am indebted to Adam for his many insights. 

Israeli wine today is as good as wine made anywhere in the world. 

The Wine Spectator in the United States, arguably the most important publication about wine, has recognized several Israeli wines among the 100 wines in the world including Flam, Tzora, Domaine du Castel and Recanati. The Wine Advocate's Mark Squire's has praised the quality of Israeli wines as hasDecanter Magazine and Jancis Robinson in the UK. Robinson is considered among the most important journalists writing about wine in the UK. 

Israel has grown wine in one way, one form, or another for more than 5,000 years (has had many lands and countries in the Mediterranean basin). However, the quality revolution in Israel began first around 1880 with the impetus of Edmond de Rothschild. 

The modern quality revolution arrived in Israel at the same time it arrived in France and California: around 1980 with the foundation of the Golan Heights Winery whose lead brand is Yarden. 

The French oenologist Emile Peynaud revolutionized French wine in the late 1970s and early 1980s with his recommendations for sanitary conditions in French wineries, temperature control during fermentations and attention to vineyard health. France has never looked back, and French wine today is far superior, in all appellations (wine growing regions), than it was in the early 20th century. So too in Israel. Golan Heights winery, founded in 1983, produced a head-turning Cabernet Sauvignon (and other wines) from high-altitude vineyards. Today, after Peter Stern's leadership there the winery has been managed by Stern appointee, Victor Shoenfeld, and the winery and its brands, Yarden, Gamla, Gilgal and Mount Hermon are knownand loved worldwide. The Mount Hermon wines are among Israel's best value wines. 

The quality wine revolution continued in the 1990s as the world discovered Israeli wine and as young Israeli winemakers and producers looked abroad for information. 

The foundation of Domaine du Castel, Margalit, Tzora, Flam, Dalton and others spearheaded a revolution of estate production, "boutique wine production". All produced and produce wines that have garnered accolades world-wide. The most important part of this revolution was attention to vineyard health and "the terror", the expression of local identity. 

The search of authenticity and the "blend" revolution. 

As winegrowers learned more about their own vineyards, the obvious emerged: we live in the Mediterranean and we need to explore Mediterranean grape varieties perhaps more suited to some of our vineyard regions. Vitkin Winery, Itay Lahat, Recanati pursued this quest with vigor and to great ends. Delicious wines were produced from "Rhone"/Mediterranean grape varieties, Grenache (white and red), Syrah, Carignan (and hybrids), Mourvèdre and Cinsault.

And accompanying the appreciation of local grape varieties was and is the art of blending varieties creating wines of a different complexity. Blends of different grape varieties, often not permitted in Europe, distinguishes Israeli wine.

As winegrowers learned more about their own vineyards, the obvious emerged: we live in the Mediterranean and we need to explore Mediterranean grape varieties perhaps more suited to some of our vineyard regions. Vitkin Winery, Itay Lahat, Recanati pursued this quest with vigor and to great ends. Delicious wines were produced from "Rhone"/Mediterranean grape varieties, Grenache (white and red), Syrah, Carignan (and hybrids), Mourvèdre and Cinsault. 

White Wines 

Until recently, most wine consumed in Israel was red. I credit Sphera Winery for changing perception and for sensing the future:a white wine revolution,dry, refreshing wines for a Mediterranean country. And now, white wine consumption has grown. Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache Blanc, non-oaked Chardonnay, dry Riesling are slaking our thirst.. 

The Negev 

Farming in a desert is a challenge and an opportunity. Nights are cold and days are hot. This means greater challenges for grape growing. However, deserts are mostly pest and disease free, a great advantage. Israeli wineries are in the avant-garde of grape growing in desert conditions. Eric de Rothschild and his daughter, Saskia, current owners of Chateau Lafite Rothschild, came to Israel a few years ago to learn how Israeli wineries are working with desert vineyards and adapting to climate change.

So, from 1880 to 2025, we have come full circle. And may a new circle begin.

Israeli wine is on the world stage. 

Wines relevant to this article (and recommended): 

The first quality revolution:

Carmel Select Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc

Teperberg Inspire Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah

The 1980s

Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc

Mount Herman Red

The 1990s

Dalton Canaan red

Vineyard authenticity and the blend revolution

• Recanati Atelier Marselan and Wild Carignan Reserve

• Dalton Alma GSM red

• Vitkin Grenache Blanc and Carignan

• Lahat Lavan and Adom (both Mediterranean blends)

• Lewinsohn Garage de Papa Rouge

White wines

• Sphera White Concept "First Page"

The Negev

• Pinto Rose and Holot Red Blend and White Blend

• Midbar White Desert and Grenache-Syrah