Mexico City: Views Through a Jewish Lens

This past January, my wife Sally and I enjoyed a two week visit to the temperate climes of Mexico City. Coming from Chicago's chilly winter, this locale was particularly appreciated. As this was our fourth visit to various destinations in Mexico, we were able to appreciate the history of this beautiful and fascinating country with greater context.

We began with a walking tour where the Jewish community was first located in the historic center of the city. This was where Jews lived from the 16th into the 20th century. We were introduced to the first area of Jewish settlement when we entered a plaza located across from the Mexican "Palace of the Inquisition" which lasted from 1571 to 1820. While now known as the Museum of Mexican Medicine, centuries ago this building was used by the Spanish as the seat of the Holy Office of the Inquisition in New Spain.

For context, it's important to understand that the Spanish conquest of the Aztec Empire was followed by persecution of multiple groups, not just Jews. During this era, an unknown number of Jews and so called "Judaizers" stood trial, and in some cases, were tortured or executed in this location. Since many records have been lost or destroyed, it's difficult to gather accurate information. I asked our guide, who is a member of the local Jewish community, how this period is generally understood. He said that many people prefer not to discuss those times due to a complex interplay of historical trauma, cultural sensitivity, and a desire to avoid rekindling old prejudices. While research and scholarly investigations continue, many in our group were disturbed by the events of those times as well as the lack of public memorials. Nevertheless, seeing these locations was important for understanding the beginnings of Jewish life in Mexico City.

The remainder of our tour was far more upbeat. Our group of six continued walking through this historic neighborhood located in the Centro Historico near the National Palace, as we saw old synagogue buildings and local storefronts which once boasted vibrant Yiddish and Jewish cultural schools. We peered through store windows which decades ago advertised kosher butchers, Passover supplies and other necessary items for the Jewish community. Sephardic, middle eastern, and Ashkenazi groups immigrated here at different times and today there are dozens of synagogue communities around the city where many of these groups continue to maintain their unique styles of worship and celebration.

Our guide shared a story which described an amusing event from the 1930s within the local Jewish community. Multiple families constructed synagogues which in those days were typically referred to by the street name where they were located. In this case, because of the name of the street, it was known as the "Jesus and Mary" shul. Letters sent back from eastern European Jews which casually mentioned this name raised concerns, with many, back in the old country, left to wonder what exactly was going on in this new land.

The physical presence of the Jewish community is largely gone from this historic part of the city, but memories and histories are preserved through oral records, family traditions, and ongoing research. Our guide showed many examples from his worn-leather bound, thick portfolio of historical photos to relay stories of the past. We stopped to visit the elegant Justo Sierra Synagogue which is no longer in active use. It appears that the Jews developed numerous vital institutions as they migrated to other parts of the city.

There are vastly different estimates of the numbers of Jews in Mexico. Estimates for all of Mexico range from 25-70,000 in this country of 130 million, with the majority living in Mexico City. There is a great degree of social cohesion in the Jewish community. People who live there are proud of their day schools, community center, and full calendar of celebrations and communal events.

The 2024 election of Claudia Scheinbaum as President of Mexico marks the first woman to hold that office as well as the first time for someone who happens to be Jewish in this overwhelmingly Catholic country. President Scheinbaum's ancestors immigrated to Mexico to escape poverty and anti-Semitism. Raised by parents who were noted scientists, Scheinbaum, 62, first became a physicist and climate scientist before entering politics and being elected Mayor of Mexico City. When asking local members of the Jewish community to share their thoughts on this achievement, they expressed both pride and ambivalence, as Scheinbaum, who doesn't deny her Jewish heritage, has never publicly affiliated with the Jewish community. Certainly, Scheinbaum's prominence may lead to deeper appreciation of the history of Jews in Mexico and beyond.

I saw remarkably few outward signs of support for Palestinians, or any sort of anti-Israel or anti-Semitic posters in Mexico City. While traveling on a local expressway, I was encouraged to see a prominent billboard pleading for the release of hostage Kfir Bibas, the Israeli baby who was kidnapped on October 7th. While walking in the Roma neighborhood on another afternoon, I noticed a parked ambulance which was prominently identified as donated by the Jewish community. The driver explained that there are several ambulances sponsored by the Jewish community providing free medical services to people in need.

Our trip spanned two Shabbatot, and as regular shul attendees, we were determined to daven south of the Rio Grande (or Rio Bravo from Mexico's perspective).

The first Shabbat, we were warmly welcomed at the Chabad shul for services and dinner, and we eagerly enjoyed this opportunity to socialize with other Jewish travelers and residents. This was the third Chabad in Mexico we attended, and we were most grateful to have these opportunities to experience Jewish communities during our global travels. Chabad families devote a great deal of time and effort to these communities, and Jewish travelers like us are exceptionally thankful for all they do.

Our first attempt to attend the local Conservative synagogue didn't work as planned since we had not completed the security procedures in time. Synagogue personnel explained to us that between the AMIA bombing in Argentina, and the attacks of October 7th, fear and security concerns escalated, and procedures tightened in Jewish communities around the world. Travelers should know that these protocols must be taken very seriously and are advised to begin their preparations early.

Our second Shabbat was spent within Mexico City's Conservative community. We met relatives of friends of ours for a delightful musical Kabbalat Shabbat service on the Friday night of "Shabbat Shira", which was enhanced by the voices of a lovely volunteer choir that accompanied their chazan, whose voice was both inviting and inspirational.