Hussein Lookout – Remembering a Brave Druze IDF Commander

Colonel Hussein Amer

Perched rather precariously – and almost too close for comfort – at the edge of the Naftali mountain ridge in the Upper Galilee, is the Hussein Lookout, an observation point and impressive memorial to a fallen Israel Defense Forces combatant, extremely exceptional in design, but unfortunately all too common in purpose.

The Hussein Lookout commemorates and furthers the legacy of Colonel Hussein Amer, commander of the 12th Barak battalion of the Golani Brigade. Colonel Hussein, from the Western Galilee Druze village of Julis, and three other Golani soldiers under his command, were killed in 1996 in an ambush in Southern Lebanon when a roadside bomb was detonated by a group of Hezbollah terrorists they had been pursuing.

Between the trees and bushes at the side of the approach road leading up to the Hussein Lookout, a group of Southern Lebanese villages can be seen relatively close by, on and around a series of low hilltops. The majority of the buildings have been reduced to rubble since the outbreak of the ongoing war between Israel forces and the Iranian backed Hezbollah.

The Hussein Lookout faces east and is situated among a copse of trees, from where an almost awe inspiring, if somewhat daunting, sweeping view opens up. Visitors feel they are almost up in the clouds – and surely on certain days they are – but on this relatively clear day, hovering like a hang-glider over a large portion of the Hula Valley, which is part of the Syrian-African Rift that was formed due to seismic activity.

However, walking toward the lookout from the parking bay, initially visitors see only a high wall with large information boards, in English and Hebrew, where they can read about the life, and tragic death, of the then 31-year-old Druze officer, born and educated in Julis and who was about to be married.

The Hussein Lookout was initiated by the Amirim Foundation, a non-profit organization founded in 1999 in his home town. The Foundation was created to commemorate the legacy of the IDF Colonel through projects educating toward coexistence in Israel, the promoting of mutual respect and solidarity, excellence in education, contribution to society, love of the land and more, all based on the personality and spirit of this highly respected officer, who fell in the line of duty.

Between the information boards at the Naftali mountain site is an equally high etching on metal, white on a dark grey background, depicting the colonel in full battle gear. The image is both highly artistic, lifelike and extremely powerful, especially when momentarily rays of sunshine make it glisten, almost glow from this spot on the rather windy hilltop.

Passing through an opening in the wall, visitors are suddenly in a sort of whooshing, man-created wind tunnel, somewhat akin to opening the door of Narnia's wardrobe and momentarily getting sucked into the unknown.

Strong winds rush over a number of thick slanted iron girders, which are held up high by another 4 similar girder pillars and surrounded by stone walls, creating a sound that is quite deafening, but also quite musical – albeit more like an earsplitting brass band than a symphony orchestra.

A roaring din rises ferociously, hits the highest of girdered crescendos and then suddenly drastically abates and becomes far more gentle as the wind weakens, caresses the rust colored iron girders and then moments later, starts up its almighty shrieking, whistling, huffing and puffing once again.

Standing in the eye of this naturally whipped up iron clad storm of a concert, this writer is mesmerized, whilst fully absorbing the joint powers of Mother Nature and those of some very artistic, creative human beings during a few moments of hush. But then boom, trach, the wind whips up again, this time dishing up an eerie, screeching sound, worthy of heart chilling background effects for an Alfred Hitchcock style movie.

From the wide paved deck of this incredible vantage point is a panoramic view over and across the Hula Valley's vast agricultural patchwork quilt of a valley floor, created by different sizes and shapes of dark, light green and rich brown fields, fish ponds and reservoirs, eliciting another string of wondrous, most definitely positive expletives.

Directly opposite, on the other side of the nowadays lush Hula Valley basin, the lower approaches and hilly plateau of the Golan mountain range become clearly visible, and literally topping off the breathtaking view across the Golan Heights northern section, the almost majestic, snowcapped Mt. Hermon looms, teases, beckons.

How can a day-tripper to the Naftali mountain range and the Hussein Lookout in particular not become in awe of the huge flock of migrating birds as they fly into view, gently, effortlessly surfing the air currents below. High above the luscious landscape spread out on a natural platter underneath us all … birds of feather who recognize no borders nor conflicts – just follow their beaks, instincts, as they wing their way to warmer, and hopefully more peaceful – climes.